Kristian McGuire, M.A. International Affairs 2014
Sigur Center 2013 Chinese Language Fellow,
National Taiwan Normal University, Taiwan

My time in Taiwan has come to an end.  In my typical fashion, I decided to leave most of the “must do,” touristy activities for the last couple weeks of my stay.  For Taipei, this meant going to the top of the Taipei 101 skyscraper; visiting Shilin Night Market, the National Palace Museum, the Eslite 24-hour bookstore; and eating an oyster omelet (蚵仔煎).

I usually try to avoid the most touristy activities a city has to offer not because I dislike them, but because they often require more effort than I deem necessary or worthwhile.  Nevertheless, I always end up doing these activities, and in retrospect I’m always glad that I did.

 

I knew that there was no way I could spend a summer in Taipei without ascending the heights of Taipei 101.  The price of making a trip to Taipei and not visiting its most famous building is years and years of having to explain to people why you didn’t make the requisite pilgrimage.  (This reminds me of a saying they have in China: 不去長城, 非好漢, or If you [go to Beijing and] don’t visit the Great Wall, you are not a real man.)  Therefore, not wanting to have my future travel stories tarnished by a deflating response to the Taipei 101 question, and a little curious to know what Taipei looked like from so high up, I decided to do the prescribed activity during my second to last week in the city.  Despite having my first effort to scale the building 

View from Taipei 101

frustrated by an exceedingly long line, I eventually made it to the top on my second attempt.  The view, although dimmed by cloud cover, was great.  Much like my first trip to the top of Jin Mao Tower in Shanghai, I felt like a chess piece finally catching a glimpse of the entire chessboard.  It was amazing to see how well Taipei has structured itself to fit the contours of its natural environment.  Taiwan’s most populous city is situated in an environment that is sort of like a combination of San Francisco and Pittsburgh with hills dotting the outskirts and rivers cutting around the city.  The view and the peace of mind I gained from checking a trip to the top of Taipei 101 off my list of things to do made the outing worthwhile.

Shilin Night Market was a fun but less important item on my to-do list.  Few people outside of Taiwan, including myself prior to planning my trip to the country, have ever heard of Shilin Night Market.  Therefore, unlike a visit to Taipei 101, I knew that no one would grill me for not visiting it. I actually didn’t have a firm intention to go to Shilin, I just stumbled upon it while wandering around the northern part of Taipei one day.  As much as I enjoyed looking at all of Shilin’s interesting shops, the novelty of the market was lost on me since I had been to several other night markets earlier in my stay.  In essence, Shilin felt like my neighborhood night market just on a grander scale. 

In contrast to my lackluster experience at Shilin Night Market, my trip to the National Palace Museum exceeded my expectations.  For years I had heard told of the National Palace Museum and its collection of some of China’s most prized artifacts which were spirited off to Taiwan while the Nationalists fought in and eventually evacuated from China.    Going to the museum, I expected to see an amazing collection of Chinese artifacts, what I didn’t expect was a museum that matched the splendor of the artifacts.  My brother-in-law, who is a photographer, has explained to me the importance of choosing a suitable frame for a photograph.

National Palace Museum Day

A similar rule, I believe, also applies to artifacts and museums.  The National Palace Museum is situated amidst the lush greenery of Taipei’s northern hills.  The building itself is impressive to say the least.  With rows and rows of stone steps leading to a magnificent imperial style structure, the museum’s majesty befits its cherished contents.  Of course, I didn’t have time to see all of the artifacts on display in the museum.  However, those that I did have time to see left me wanting to return to the National Palace Museum the next time I make it to Taipei.

National Palace Museum Night

Before coming to Taipei, I never would have guessed that visiting a bookstore would be one of the main items on my Taiwan to-do list.  Since arriving in Taipei, I have heard countless expats and locals alike tell tale of a wonderful bookstore chain called Eslite that has at least one 24-hour store in the city.  A Taiwanese friend told me that this bookstore chain is the pride of Taiwan, and that, when the company opened a store in Hong Kong last year, a Hong Kong newspaper proclaimed that Hong Kong finally had culture.  Eslite lived up to all the hype.  Coming from a country where bookstores seem to be on their way to extinction, I was pleased to see a bookstore chain that isn’t just surviving, but thriving.  Even though Eslite is primarily a Chinese language bookstore, its selection of English language books and magazines is large enough to put many American bookstores to shame.   If it hadn’t been for the fact that I was flying back to the States in less than a week and I already had enough things to pack my suitcase to the gills, I definitely would have bought a few books at Eslite.  Anyway, I know for future trips to Taiwan where I can stock up on books and magazines. 

Jiufen Day

Jiufen Night

Monday night I finally tried one of Taiwan’s famous dishes, an oyster omelet.  The incredibly diverse food selection in Taiwan makes Taiwan very similar to the U.S. in that it is hard to identify any single dish among the multitude of tasty dishes available as truly indigenous to the country.  Fusion cuisines, and spin-offs of other countries’ traditional dishes seem to comprise the bulk of Taiwanese cuisine.  The oyster omelet is no exception.  I have seen similar fried creations in China, yet I have only tried a handful.  When a friend suggested that I try an oyster omelet at a little snack shack that is especially well-known for them, I decided it was better to follow a friend’s recommendation than to take my chances with a restaurant I might find on my own.  I wasn’t disappointed with my friend’s recommendation.  The oyster omelet was a great choice for one of my final meals in Taiwan.

A Street in Jiufen

There are plenty of things that I will miss about Taiwan and plenty of observations I would like to share (I might do so at a later date).  Above all, I will miss the peaceful atmosphere, and the value Taiwanese seem to place on constantly improving their quality of life.  Granted Taiwan has its problems.  This summer, the country has had to cope with the death of young soldier who appears to have died from torturous punishments inflicted upon him by his superiors.  Rabies has appeared on the island for the first time in more than a half a century.  The government has come into conflict with thousands of its citizens over a land requisition project in Miaoli county that has entailed the forced demolition of four houses.  Yet these problems have been met by government and civic action with an eye toward moving Taiwanese society forward.  Where Taiwanese citizens feel that their government is failing them, they let it be known.  Where the government feels justified in actions or positions, it states its case.  I have been astounded at the willingness and enthusiasm with which so many Taiwanese participate in political life.  Their activism gives me hope that the Taiwan that I will return to will be even better than the Taiwan that I left.

My Neighborhood at Night 1

My Neighborhood at Night 2

My Neighborhood at Dusk

Quite Possibly the Coolest Catholic Preschool in the World, Yilan City

   

Taipei, A Truly Green City 1

Taipei, A Truly Green City 2

Taipei, A Truly Green City 3

Keelung City Sign

A Street in Keelung

Bust of Douglas MacArthur, Chiayi

Taipei Graffiti 1

Taipei Graffiti 2

     

Taipei Graffiti 3

   

The Reaction

Taipei: Ningxia Night Market

Shirley Hsieh, M.A. International Trade and Investment Policy 2015,

Sigur Center 2013 Chinese Language Fellow, 

National Taiwan Normal University, Taiwan

Shrine to Koxinga, or Zheng Chenggong, who took Taiwan back from the Dutch in the 17th century.

Koxinga shrine, Tainan.

Koxinga shrine, Tainan.

One is supposed to write down prayers in these small wooden cards and leave them for them to be fulfilled.

Koxinga, of Chinese/Japanese parentage, was loyal to the Ming dynasty. His statues are everywhere in Tainan.

The oldest Confucius temple in Taiwan was commissioned by Koxinga's son in 1663. 

Confucius Temple, Tainan.

Confucius Temple, Tainan.

Chihkan Tower, or Fort Provintia was the administrative center of the Dutch in 1650s till it fell to Koxinga

Artist's depiction of the Dutch surrender.

Chihkan Tower, Tainan.

Fort Zeelandia or Anping Fort was the Dutch outpost that looked out to the sea for possible attacks. It fell after a 9 month siege when fresh water ran out. And that, in 1662, ended Dutch rule in Taiwan.

Old Wall built by the Dutch in the 17th century in Fort Zeelandia or Anping Fort. The bricks were brought from Java and the mortar made of sugar, sand, ground seashells and rice. Still standing after 350 years!

Koxinga, still keeping an eye out at Anping Fort. 

My return to Taiwan has certainly helped me improve my Chinese but that wasn't the sole reason why I returned to Taiwan. When I wrote my scholarship application I mentioned how important it was for me to return to Taiwan to see my host families. The last time I was in Taiwan my host families did everything from taking me to the doctor's office to keeping me full (not an easy task). During the past two months I've been able to see all three of my host families and it's been great. During these few months I've seen my host father become president of the Rotary club, gone to the zoo with my host sister, visited the beach, watched my host sister's dance performance, and gone hiking with my host brother. Out of everything that Taipei and Taiwan has to offer my favorite moments have been spent with my host families. I'd rather eat a meal at their house than go to Din Tai Fung. 

I'm frequently asked why my surname is 林(lin) and I always get a laugh when I tell them it was my first host family's surname. I never thought I'd use the term "host cousin" but in fact I eat meals, go hiking, and hang out with my host cousins. My host uncle even picked me up from the airport. 

I owe so much to my host families. I hope they understand how much I appreciate all of the meals. I can't thank them enough. They continue to encourage and inspire me to learn Chinese. I know that my parents are also thankful for everything that my host families have done for me. I hope that one day they'll have the opportunity to meet. 

Rotary meeting with my host sisters and host father 

Host mother and a wonderful meal

Nothing beats home cooking

My host father and even found me a running partner

My host sister and I kayaking

Mango Ice with my host family

Hiking trip with my host brother and host cousin

Family dinner

My computer broke in Taiwan and it only just got fixed! My apologies-- Here is a video of my trip to Yang Ming Shan National Park and a tour of the Miau Bang Garden. Thank you for watching! 

Yang Ming Shan National Park and natural hot springs behind

Shirley Hsieh, M.A. International Trade and Investment Policy 2015,

Sigur Center 2013 Chinese Language Fellow, 

National Taiwan Normal University, Taiwan

"Eat, Drink, Live Taipei"

 -Pitching studying Chinese in Taipei though a fun examination of Taiwan's vegetarian buffet food and its popular beverages.

For anyone interested in China, it is difficult not to be fascinated by Taiwan. A ‘country’ whose existence is defined by the struggle to uphold its identity as a separate, sovereign, state. It has been warding off attempts to be integrated with the People’s Republic of China (PRC) for over six decades now, but the struggle doesn't seem to have gotten any easier. Being in Taiwan, however, it is difficult to notice that. 

Taipei 101, the tallest building in the world between 2004 and 2010 flanked by other buildings

An evening out in Taipei

Evening traffic in Taipei

The bustling, colorful cities with busy streets where young people seem to take their fashion cues from the latest western trends and carry the latest gizmos, make you wonder about the existential question that has defined the Republic of China (ROC) – What about Taiwan? Will it exist as a separate state? Will it eventually be reintegrated? Does young people in Taiwan even care?  This is the question that kept coming back to me throughout my stay; it is the question I asked as many people as I could. I am not sure I have a definitive answer; I am not even sure there IS an answer. But what I have are some very curious perspectives, that no doubt, lend a peek into the way today’s ROC thinks, and perhaps the way tomorrow’s Taiwan will act.

What is their greatest concern?

Taiwan has benefited from industrialization and liberalization that started early. The economy doubled several times between the 1960s and 1980s. In the last few years, GDP has consistently grown annually between 4% and 6%, and in 2012 per capita GDP stood at over $20,000 in nominal terms, while that in the PRC was at  little above $6000. But Taiwan's problems are of a different kind. As a result of jobs moving to the mainland, salaries in the island have stayed stagnant for almost two decades, pinching the middle class the hardest. High house prices that refuse to come down mean the dream of owning a home will remain just that for most. The high cost of living has invariably led to a low birth-rate, which, despite a recent spike, remains one of the lowest in the world, pointing to a future with fewer workers to spurt either consumption or add to the workforce. 

Fewer young people to join the workforce every year

As a recent study found, the greatest worry for Taiwanese students, therefore, is selecting a career with a future, and finding a job that pays enough. Perhaps that is why in my conversation with young Taiwanese - those finishing school or those who have just begin college, the question of PRC-ROC relations usually elicited vague responses. They know about the issue for sure, but seemed to have other priorities. Some of the older people, those in their thirties and beyond, had more interesting observations. Many believe an eventual reintegration is unavoidable - few look forward to it, some are resigned to it. Some point at the economic cooperation and claim even if it happened, the cooperation would ensure it wasn’t a bloody one. I must add here, these responses mostly came about in the course of casual conversations, and I did not follow the methods required for a scientific survey. 

As I met more people, one trait stood out - people love their freedom and their right to voice their opinion, either in support or against policies of the government. Protests are organized near the presidential office almost every weekend; sometimes against use of nuclear energy, sometimes against trade agreements with the the PRC. 

Anti government demonstration in Taipei

Protesting against trade pact with the PRC - demanding ouster of the government

Street play in anti government demonstration in Taipei

Anti government demonstration in Taipei - protesting against a trade pact with China

What struck me about the protests against policies building closer economic ties to the PRC was the composition of the crowd - save the students that put up a street play on the issue, most in the crowd looked like retired people. Those who I spoke to, asking about the importance of the issue to young people - seemed divided; some lamented that the young simply did not care. Others however, had a more important explanation – they believed that the reason young people didn't spend much time on the issue of ROC-PRC relations, is because they were born and brought up in a Taiwan that had built a completely separate identity for itself. Raised in the time of peace, in a democratic set-up, they were so conscious of their political rights and freedom, being a part of the PRC was not even something they could comprehend.

The full import of this belief struck home yesterday - as thousands of students descended in central Taipei to protest the suspicious death of an army corporal. They were unhappy with the government's assurances, and wanted speedy action against the guilty. I could not visit the protest site as I was out of Taipei for most of the day. But late at night I saw astonishing pictures flash across tv screens - the young people of Taipei described variously as elusive and self-centered, out in the street, standing for a cause they could identify with - one of personal freedom and possible human rights violation.

Image courtesy: Taipei Times

Image courtesy: Taipei Times

Thousands - sitting in protest barely 100 yards away from the presidential office, raising slogans, demanding answers even while a large police force kept a tight watch, but did nothing to stop the peaceful demonstration. As I sat fascinated at the live pictures - it was suddenly clear to me what it meant to be a young Taiwanese. And why a young man/woman in the Republic of China could not see himself/herself as a part of the People's Republic of China. At least, not yet.

Deep Pal, M.A. in International Affairs, 2014

Sigur Center 2013 Summer Language Fellow

National Taiwan Normal University, Taipei, Taiwan.