Introduction
Delving into Kenya is like rummaging through nature's treasure chest. Revered by many anthropologists as the 'cradle of humanity', Kenya is wild and a little dangerous. If you're adventurous - and sensible - it promises the globe's most magnificent wildlife parks, unsullied beaches, thriving coral reefs, memorable mountainscapes and ancient Swahili cities.
The Swahili word safari (literally, journey) wouldn't mean much to most people if it wasn't for this East African adventure land. No matter how many Tarzan movies you've seen, nothing will prepare you for the annual mass migration of wildebeests in the Masai Mara.
Geography:
On Africa's east coast, Kenya straddles the equator and shares a border with Somalia, Ethiopia, Sudan, Uganda and Tanzania. Its coast is lapped by the Indian Ocean and it shares the vast waters of Lake Victoria with its western and southern neighbours. The Rift Valley and Central Highlands area form the backbone of the country, and this is where Kenya's scenery is at its most spectacular. The humid coastal belt includes the Tana River estuary and a string of good beaches. Western Kenya takes in the fertile fringes of Lake Victoria and, with the southern part of the country, some prime wildlife parks. The vast, arid region is where Kenya is at its wildest and most untouched by the modern world.
Destination facts
Capital: Nairobi
President: Mwai Kibaki
Prime Minister: Raila Odinga
Government: republic (multiparty state)
Time zone: GMT +3
Area: 583000
Population: 31639000
People: 22% Kikuyu, 14% Luhya, 13% Luo, 12% Kalenjin, 11% Kamba, 6% Kisii, 6% Meru, 16% other
Languages: 35% Protestant, 30% Roman Catholic, 30% Muslim, 5% Animist
Currency: Kenyan Shilling (KSh)
Major industries: small-scale consumer goods (plastic, furniture, beer, batteries, textiles, flour), agricultural processing, oil refining, chemicals, cement, tourism
Major Trading Partners: Uganda, Tanzania, UK, Germany, UAE, South Africa
Country Dialing Code: 254
Getting There
The main tourist season is in January and February, since the hot, dry weather at this time of year is generally considered to be the most pleasant. It's also when Kenya's birdlife flocks to the Rift Valley lakes in great numbers. June to September could be called the 'shoulder season' as the weather is still dry. The rains hit from March to May (and to a lesser extent from October to December). During these months things are much quieter - places tend to have rooms available and prices drop. The rains generally don't affect travellers' ability to get around. If you're planning to visit Lamu, you might want to time your visit to coincide with the centuries-old Maulid Festival.
Getting there and away
Nairobi's Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is the hub of East African air transport, and it has connections to many European and US cities. It's from these places that you're most likely to get a relatively cheap ticket, but it's worth checking out cheap charter flights to Mombasa from Europe too. Airport departure tax for international flights is 20.00 but is usually included in the cost of your ticket. You can travel by bus or minibus shuttle between Kenya and Tanzania. The main routes are from Mombasa or Nairobi to Dar es Salaam and from Nairobi to Arusha and Moshi. There's also a once-weekly train connection between Voi in Kenya with Taveta (on the border), from which you can take local transport to Moshi. The ferry service that connected Mombasa with Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam is no longer running. The main border crossing into Uganda is at Malaba, though Busia is an alternative if you're coming from Kisumu. Nairobi and the Ugandan capital Kampala are connected by road (the train no longer operates). Moyale is the main border crossing with Ethiopia, though those with serious 4WDs can also enter Kenya from Ethiopia via Fort Banya near Lake Turkana (this route isn't possible from Kenya to Ethiopia). There's no safe way you can enter or exit Kenya overland from Somalia or Sudan at present.
Getting around
Kenya has about 250 airports and airstrips (of vastly varying quality) and plenty of airlines connecting Nairobi with Mombasa, Kisumu, Nanyuki, Malindi, Lamu and the national parks/reserves of Amboseli, Masai Mara and Samburu. While many flights are heavily booked, flying around Kenya and its neighbouring countries is a relatively safe and fairly cheap way to cover a lot of ground. The Kenyan train between Nairobi and Mombasa is also a popular form of transport, despite the fact that the rolling stock, tracks and other essential works have been allowed to deteriorate. The trains are considerably safer than travelling by bus or matatu on the same route, but they are less frequent and take much longer. Kenya has a network of regular buses, matatus (usually minibuses), shared-taxis and private taxis. Matatus were notorious for their involvement in horror road smashes (the Mombasa-Nairobi road in particular), but the new government seems to have tamed them with the forced installation of seatbelts and speed governors. Robberies by ambush (mainly in and near Nairobi) are still a problem, but not as common as they used to be since police now search most matatus before they can leave Nairobi. To further reduce the risk of both robbery or accident, never travel by matatu at night. Cycling is best done in rural areas due to the chaotic traffic on the main roads, but the distances between towns and the poor condition of roads needs to be kept in mind. If you're bringing your own vehicle to Kenya you should get a free three-month permit at the border on entry, as long as you have a valid carnet de passage for it. Keep in mind there are certain routes in northeast Kenya where bandits roam and you must obtain police permission before setting out that way. Hiring a vehicle in Kenya (or at least the national parks) is a relatively expensive way to see the country but it does give you freedom of movement and is sometimes the only way of getting to the more remote reaches. The condition of Kenyan roads vary considerably. For the more maritimely minded, sailing on a dhow along the East African coast is one of Kenya's most worthwhile and memorable travel experiences. Some of the most popular, and most expensive, dhow cruises leave from Nyali on the mainland opposite Mombasa Island. For a cheaper dhow trip, go to Lamu.
Visa:
Visas are now required by almost all visitors to Kenya, including Europeans, Australians, New Zealanders, Americans and Canadians, although citizens from a few smaller Commonwealth countries are exempt. Visas are valid for three months from the date of entry and can be obtained upon arrival at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport in Nairobi for US$50 for a single-entry visa, double for multiple entries. Visas are also easily obtained at land crossings with Ethiopia, Tanzania and Uganda. Tourist visas can be extended for a further three month period, but not seven-day transit visas. It's also possible to get visas from Kenyan diplomatic missions overseas, but you should apply well in advance, especially if you're doing it by mail.
Weather
With pleasant overall conditions all year round, Kenya's southern highlands and coastal lowlands see little variation in conditions; each has a wet season between March and May and a second one in November and December. Temperatures are consistent throughout the year and cool for an equatorial region, ranging from high 20 ° Cs to low 30 ° Cs (80 ° Fs to low 90 ° Fs) on the coast, dropping slightly inland and then raising again closer to Lake Victoria.
Places of Interest
Revered by many anthropologists as the 'cradle of humanity', Kenya is wild and a little dangerous. If you're adventurous - and sensible - it promises the globe's most magnificent wildlife parks, unsullied beaches, thriving coral reefs, memorable mountainscapes and ancient Swahili cities.
The Swahili word safari (literally, journey) wouldn't mean much to most people if it wasn't for this East African adventure land. No matter how many Tarzan movies you've seen, nothing will prepare you for the annual mass migration of wildebeests in the Masai Mara.
The bleeding obvious Kenya activity is the safari, but there are many ways to safari. For something different, camel safaris - in the Samburu and Turkana tribal areas between Isiolo and Lake Turkana - must rate as the most unforgettable.
Kenya's most spectacular annual event is organised by an unlikely group - wildebeests. Literally millions of these ungainly antelopes move en masse in July and August from the Serengeti in search of lush grass. They head south again around October. The best place to see this phenomenon is at the Masai Mara National Reserve. Kenya's more orthodox annual events include public holidays such as Kenyatta Day (20 October) and Independence Day (12 December).
Warning
The areas bordering Sudan, Ethiopia and Somalia are all prone to banditry. While travellers are not usually targeted, adequate security arrangements and awareness of the situation is advised to ensure safe travel in these parts of Kenya. The Somalian border is currently closed due to the conflict north of the frontier. Nairobi has a reputation for serious crime that is unfortunately justified. Travellers should heed any local advice in regards to security and use common sense to avoid potentially dangerous situations. Mombasa is regarded as a safer destination, but caution is still advised when venturing out alone or at night.
Delving into Kenya is like rummaging through nature's treasure chest. Revered by many anthropologists as the 'cradle of humanity', Kenya is wild and a little dangerous. If you're adventurous - and sensible - it promises the globe's most magnificent wildlife parks, unsullied beaches, thriving coral reefs, memorable mountainscapes and ancient Swahili cities.
The Swahili word safari (literally, journey) wouldn't mean much to most people if it wasn't for this East African adventure land. No matter how many Tarzan movies you've seen, nothing will prepare you for the annual mass migration of wildebeests in the Masai Mara.
Geography:
On Africa's east coast, Kenya straddles the equator and shares a border with Somalia, Ethiopia, Sudan, Uganda and Tanzania. Its coast is lapped by the Indian Ocean and it shares the vast waters of Lake Victoria with its western and southern neighbours. The Rift Valley and Central Highlands area form the backbone of the country, and this is where Kenya's scenery is at its most spectacular. The humid coastal belt includes the Tana River estuary and a string of good beaches. Western Kenya takes in the fertile fringes of Lake Victoria and, with the southern part of the country, some prime wildlife parks. The vast, arid region is where Kenya is at its wildest and most untouched by the modern world.
Destination facts
Capital: Nairobi
President: Mwai Kibaki
Prime Minister: Raila Odinga
Government: republic (multiparty state)
Time zone: GMT +3
Area: 583000
Population: 31639000
People: 22% Kikuyu, 14% Luhya, 13% Luo, 12% Kalenjin, 11% Kamba, 6% Kisii, 6% Meru, 16% other
Languages: 35% Protestant, 30% Roman Catholic, 30% Muslim, 5% Animist
Currency: Kenyan Shilling (KSh)
Major industries: small-scale consumer goods (plastic, furniture, beer, batteries, textiles, flour), agricultural processing, oil refining, chemicals, cement, tourism
Major Trading Partners: Uganda, Tanzania, UK, Germany, UAE, South Africa
Country Dialing Code: 254
Getting There
The main tourist season is in January and February, since the hot, dry weather at this time of year is generally considered to be the most pleasant. It's also when Kenya's birdlife flocks to the Rift Valley lakes in great numbers. June to September could be called the 'shoulder season' as the weather is still dry. The rains hit from March to May (and to a lesser extent from October to December). During these months things are much quieter - places tend to have rooms available and prices drop. The rains generally don't affect travellers' ability to get around. If you're planning to visit Lamu, you might want to time your visit to coincide with the centuries-old Maulid Festival.
Getting there and away
Nairobi's Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is the hub of East African air transport, and it has connections to many European and US cities. It's from these places that you're most likely to get a relatively cheap ticket, but it's worth checking out cheap charter flights to Mombasa from Europe too. Airport departure tax for international flights is 20.00 but is usually included in the cost of your ticket. You can travel by bus or minibus shuttle between Kenya and Tanzania. The main routes are from Mombasa or Nairobi to Dar es Salaam and from Nairobi to Arusha and Moshi. There's also a once-weekly train connection between Voi in Kenya with Taveta (on the border), from which you can take local transport to Moshi. The ferry service that connected Mombasa with Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam is no longer running. The main border crossing into Uganda is at Malaba, though Busia is an alternative if you're coming from Kisumu. Nairobi and the Ugandan capital Kampala are connected by road (the train no longer operates). Moyale is the main border crossing with Ethiopia, though those with serious 4WDs can also enter Kenya from Ethiopia via Fort Banya near Lake Turkana (this route isn't possible from Kenya to Ethiopia). There's no safe way you can enter or exit Kenya overland from Somalia or Sudan at present.
Getting around
Kenya has about 250 airports and airstrips (of vastly varying quality) and plenty of airlines connecting Nairobi with Mombasa, Kisumu, Nanyuki, Malindi, Lamu and the national parks/reserves of Amboseli, Masai Mara and Samburu. While many flights are heavily booked, flying around Kenya and its neighbouring countries is a relatively safe and fairly cheap way to cover a lot of ground. The Kenyan train between Nairobi and Mombasa is also a popular form of transport, despite the fact that the rolling stock, tracks and other essential works have been allowed to deteriorate. The trains are considerably safer than travelling by bus or matatu on the same route, but they are less frequent and take much longer. Kenya has a network of regular buses, matatus (usually minibuses), shared-taxis and private taxis. Matatus were notorious for their involvement in horror road smashes (the Mombasa-Nairobi road in particular), but the new government seems to have tamed them with the forced installation of seatbelts and speed governors. Robberies by ambush (mainly in and near Nairobi) are still a problem, but not as common as they used to be since police now search most matatus before they can leave Nairobi. To further reduce the risk of both robbery or accident, never travel by matatu at night. Cycling is best done in rural areas due to the chaotic traffic on the main roads, but the distances between towns and the poor condition of roads needs to be kept in mind. If you're bringing your own vehicle to Kenya you should get a free three-month permit at the border on entry, as long as you have a valid carnet de passage for it. Keep in mind there are certain routes in northeast Kenya where bandits roam and you must obtain police permission before setting out that way. Hiring a vehicle in Kenya (or at least the national parks) is a relatively expensive way to see the country but it does give you freedom of movement and is sometimes the only way of getting to the more remote reaches. The condition of Kenyan roads vary considerably. For the more maritimely minded, sailing on a dhow along the East African coast is one of Kenya's most worthwhile and memorable travel experiences. Some of the most popular, and most expensive, dhow cruises leave from Nyali on the mainland opposite Mombasa Island. For a cheaper dhow trip, go to Lamu.
Visa:
Visas are now required by almost all visitors to Kenya, including Europeans, Australians, New Zealanders, Americans and Canadians, although citizens from a few smaller Commonwealth countries are exempt. Visas are valid for three months from the date of entry and can be obtained upon arrival at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport in Nairobi for US$50 for a single-entry visa, double for multiple entries. Visas are also easily obtained at land crossings with Ethiopia, Tanzania and Uganda. Tourist visas can be extended for a further three month period, but not seven-day transit visas. It's also possible to get visas from Kenyan diplomatic missions overseas, but you should apply well in advance, especially if you're doing it by mail.
Weather
With pleasant overall conditions all year round, Kenya's southern highlands and coastal lowlands see little variation in conditions; each has a wet season between March and May and a second one in November and December. Temperatures are consistent throughout the year and cool for an equatorial region, ranging from high 20 ° Cs to low 30 ° Cs (80 ° Fs to low 90 ° Fs) on the coast, dropping slightly inland and then raising again closer to Lake Victoria.
Places of Interest
Revered by many anthropologists as the 'cradle of humanity', Kenya is wild and a little dangerous. If you're adventurous - and sensible - it promises the globe's most magnificent wildlife parks, unsullied beaches, thriving coral reefs, memorable mountainscapes and ancient Swahili cities.
The Swahili word safari (literally, journey) wouldn't mean much to most people if it wasn't for this East African adventure land. No matter how many Tarzan movies you've seen, nothing will prepare you for the annual mass migration of wildebeests in the Masai Mara.
The bleeding obvious Kenya activity is the safari, but there are many ways to safari. For something different, camel safaris - in the Samburu and Turkana tribal areas between Isiolo and Lake Turkana - must rate as the most unforgettable.
Kenya's most spectacular annual event is organised by an unlikely group - wildebeests. Literally millions of these ungainly antelopes move en masse in July and August from the Serengeti in search of lush grass. They head south again around October. The best place to see this phenomenon is at the Masai Mara National Reserve. Kenya's more orthodox annual events include public holidays such as Kenyatta Day (20 October) and Independence Day (12 December).
Warning
The areas bordering Sudan, Ethiopia and Somalia are all prone to banditry. While travellers are not usually targeted, adequate security arrangements and awareness of the situation is advised to ensure safe travel in these parts of Kenya. The Somalian border is currently closed due to the conflict north of the frontier. Nairobi has a reputation for serious crime that is unfortunately justified. Travellers should heed any local advice in regards to security and use common sense to avoid potentially dangerous situations. Mombasa is regarded as a safer destination, but caution is still advised when venturing out alone or at night.
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