Yemen Country

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Introduction
Step back in time to this cheap and cheerful pre-oil Arabia. After more upsets than a Delhi belly, Yemen is slowly becoming known as the 'undiscovered pearl of the Peninsula' by travellers in the know. Although the country is gradually modernising, you'll find plenty of old-style Arabia - from spicy souqs to sumptuous palaces - wherever you go.

Destination Facts
Capital: Sana'a
President: Ali Abdallah Saleh
Prime Minister: Ali Muhammad Mujawwar
Government: republic
Time zone: GMT +3
Area: 527970
Population: 21000000
Languages: Muslim, including Shaf'i (Sunni) and Zaydi (Shi'a); Jewish, Christian, Hindu
Currency: Yemeni Rial (YRIs)
Country Dialing Code: 967

Getting There
When you go depends on where you're going. If you're going to the Tihama, Aden or Hadhramawt, don't go in July - the heat will be unbearable. If you're heading for the highlands, December nights can be very cold. From October to February, most of the country is dry and dusty, and in March, April and August the temperature is pleasant but you may get wet in parts of Yemen. April to May and September to October are probably the best bets wherever you're heading. The observation of significant days is an important part of Yemen's culture. In addition to the main Islamic holidays, people recognise Revolution Day (26 September), National Day (14 October) and Independence Day (30 November).

Getting there and away
Yemen is served by flights from most of western Europe, Russia, north, south and east Africa, the Middle East and Asia. The majority of flights arrive and leave from San'a's airport. Buses travel to Saudi Arabia and to the Oman border (and further afield, but distances are long and journeys are slow). There are no non-commercial ferry services to/from Yemen, and it's very difficult to hitch a ride on a cargo boat. If you hire a car, you can drive from Oman through Salalah or from Saudi Arabia along the Tihama road, but leave plenty of time for bureaucracy.

Getting around
Yemenia, the national airline, offers plenty of internal flights in Yemen if you're in a hurry and can spare the cash. Note that flights are considerably cheaper if booked in Yemen and not through an agency or over the internet. At the time of writing, a travel permit was required by all tourists travelling to any place outside San'a and its immediate environs. Though travel permits are free, there's a catch: they are only issued to tourists travelling with a travel agency (Yemeni or foreign). In other words, independent travel is currently not on the cards. The ban should be lifted in the near future. When it is, buses travel along all major asphalt roads. You need to buy a ticket beforehand at the terminal or at a major stop. Taxis run on predetermined routes but without timetables - when they're full, they leave. Taxis travel most bus routes but also run on unpaved roads. You'll pay up to 50% more than you would on a bus. You can also hire private taxis. Rental cars generally come with their own drivers and are hired at travel agencies.

Visa:
Everybody (except citizens of the Gulf Cooperation Council - GCC - countries) needs a visa to enter Yemen. Note that you can't currently obtain visas at the airport or border crossings. If your passport carries evidence of a visit to Israel, you will not be granted a visa. Tourist visas generally last one to three months. A law was recently passed allowing citizens of the EU and G8 countries to obtain three-month visas at the airport. However, this appears yet to be in operation. Check the current situation with your embassy before leaving the country.

Weather
Climatically, Yemen can be divided into three main zones: the Tihama (the hot and humid Red Sea coastal strip); the central highlands (including San'a); and Wadi Hadramawt and the east, and the far north. The Tihama and the southern coast are hot and humid year-round but without much rain. Daytime temperatures are around 28° C (82° F) in winter and 37° C (98° F) in summer. The twice-yearly monsoons can be heavy in the southwest between mid-March and mid-April, and particularly from July to September. Beware of flooding and closed roads. The central highlands (which range from 1500m/4921ft to 3500m/11,483ft) enjoy a temperate climate for most of the year, though it can get hot at noon and chilly at night (particularly between October and February). San'a averages daytime temperatures between 25° C (77° F) and 30° C (86° F) - at night it can get down to freezing. Wadi Hadramawt and the east, and the far north, are hot (particularly between June and September) and very dry, with temperatures from 25° C (77° F) in December to 37° C (99° F) or more in June.

Places of Interest
After more upsets than a Delhi belly, Yemen is slowly becoming known as the 'undiscovered pearl of the Peninsula' by travellers in the know. Although the country is gradually modernising, you'll find plenty of old-style Arabia - from spicy souqs to sumptuous palaces - wherever you go.

Warning
Areas of Yemen are considered unsafe for travel, including popular sites within Sana'a and Hadramaut Provinces. Foreigners have been targeted in several violent attacks including bombings and kidnappings. Check Safe Travel for current government warnings.
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